Our Daily Health Checks

When we feed. We also do a daily "herd" check, sometimes several times a day in inclement weather ie. extreme heat, or severe cold temps.
There are several things we are watching for as we feed. We are observing things about their behavior as we go about our chores. I made a small list of some things we take note of. Many of these are just common sense and most probably know and already do these things, I just thought it might be helpful for the newcomers to raising goats to use as a reference.

1) Is your animal "isolating" In another words is it off in the corner rather than up with the rest of the herd. Does it get up to eat or remain laying. If you are feeding and you notice a goat doesn't rise to the occasion. It's important you check him/her asap to examine what is going on. It may be nothing or it could be something that require attention.
2) Teeth grinding is a sign of "pain" in a goat. Another thing that requires your attention to what may be the cause of discomfort for your goat.
3) What is the stool looking like? Are you noticing any diarrhea on the back legs or tails of any of the herd? How many? Have you recently changed anything in their diet?
4) Lethargy(lack of energy) in a goat that normally is more active.
5) Rapid or slow breathing and content just to lay there when it's feeding time.
6)Drainage from the eyes and or nose.
7) Coughing repeatedly.( Goats will cough if they consume their grain too quickly, etc., but if while you are feeding you are repeatedly hearing the same cough out of a particular goat it again needs your attention.
8)Weight loss in a rather short period of time.
9)Any swelling or limping in the limbs.
10) Appearance of "bloat" where the sides protrude out and when tapped on sound like a drum and the goat wants to lay down or lay on it's side.(THIS CAN BE A SERIOUS CONDITION DEPENDING AND NEEDS IMMEDIATE ATTENTION) Death can result in certain kinds of bloat when left untreated.

Here is a list that we use to evaluate some of the above things that I mentioned require attention and or IMMEDIATE attention.

1) Take the goats temperature 102 is normal for a goat and even 103 degrees.
2) If the goat appears "bloated" as described above, you can give it mineral oil, or cooking oil by syringe orally. Depending on the size of the goat the amount obviously varies. I usually give several cc's to a kid (which I've only had to do once.) For an adult I would give 4-6 cc's orally.( Which again I have only done several times.) See if they will take baking soda from your hand. Lots of times they will lick some and will also help neutralize acid. (Having baking soda free choice for the goats is a good idea as well in a pan.) They need to get up and move around to pass the gas. If they are moaning and still not responding I would recommend that you immediately contact your vet. (The above suggestions are not for a goat that has a severe case of bloat.) You can still use these suggestions, but would strongly urge a call to your vet in addition.
3) If you notice limping, check limbs for warmth, swelling, and redness. Is there a visible injury such as a cut or does it appear muscular.
4) If a goat is "off feed"(not eating) the first thing I generally do is take their temperature. That helps to rule out possible infection,etc, although infections can occur and other things where the goat may not run a temperature, so that can't be taken for granted that everything is then totally okay.
5) A runny nose, discharge from the eyes coughing, can indicate a number of possible things going on. All the way from allergies, to pneumonia. Again taking the temp helps with giving you information you can then pass on to your vet even if it's just a phone call to ask him questions. He may tell you what you look for or do over the phone or he may ask you or recommend that he stops by and takes a look at the goat. (My motto when it comes to a vet call is that I'd rather be safe than sorry.)
6) Isolating in itself doesn't necessarily mean it's always something serious, in the case of a doe about to kid they generally will go off and be away from the herd, sometimes sort of looking "spacey" the day or two before they kid.
7)There can be a number of reasons for weight loss. We have noticed in the terrific heat wave that we are having this summer of 2005 with high humidity that we are watering up to 4x's a day and checking just as often. They have a cool place they can come into, but after a week of this type of weather we do notice a slight weight loss on some of the goats. Parasites are a common
reason for weight loss in a goat. Making sure your herd is properly wormed on a regular basis and alternating worming medications is a good practice so they don't build up a resistance to using the same type all the time. Make sure that the worming medication doesn't have any precautions on the label, for example Valbazan can't be used on a pregnant doe. It's always important to read the labels on everything you use. Even thou some of the things are just necessary for them to put on the labels but allot of the information may contain very significant precautions that you need to be aware of.
8) If you have your pregnant does in the herd where a buck is still running with the herd, it's important if you do see a doe that is off by herself and you know she is getting close to kidding to either remove the buck from the herd, or put the doe in a pen by herself or with others she gets along with so as not to stress her anymore than need be. I always check the goats udders several times a day when I know they are close to their kidding date. (Another part of "observing and doing chores") other than just the feeding.
9) There are different medicines that goat breeders use for diarrhea (scours)
I have used "Pepto Bismol" and that has been quite effective. Again as with the amount I use about 1cc for a kid, and 2-3cc's for an adult. That's not an exact amount. I guesstimate according to the age and size. I'd rather give less and give it again, than give too much.(It's really important for me to state that these are MY practices and others may do things differently and be even more effective. I don't want to lead anyone into thinking this is strict medical information coming from a vet or standard procedure.) This is how I personally handle medical situations with my goats. If I am not sure I will call another breeder, or my vet for information, and I strongly encourage if you are new to goats that you check things out before you treat your animals, to make sure you are giving the right things and in the correct amounts. This is very important.)
10) In ending this article I just wanted to reiterate the importance of relying on accurate information, reading labels, asking questions, and contacting your vet.

Mary Schaefer